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Getting into Hanoi

The trip to the city from Noi Bai Airport takes about one hour and provides some poignant glimpses of modern Vietnamese life: farmers tending their fields, great rivers, modern highways that abruptly become bumpy roads. The drive is particularly breathtaking in the evening as soon as the roads fill with bicycles, and everything takes on the exact same deep colors as the modern paintings the thing is in Hanoi's galleries. Somehow the setting sun seems enormous here as it dips in to the cornfields on the horizon.
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In the side of the town the road dissolves into a maze of winding, narrow, wooded lanes. You are enclosed by roadside artisans, shops and taverns, then by graceful villas and commuters on bicycles, cyclos and motorbikes. Modern buildings appear from nowhere, looking so away from place that you must wonder when they were dropped from the sky and just left where they came to rest. That nothing as preposterous as Hanoi can be so beautiful, you cannot help but be dazzled while you tell yourself.